most go by tempurature range spud, the motul 600 is some of the best out there, now we can get you some but its about $100 a pint:fing02:

they dont reccomend the wilwood 5 or 570 which is the same I sell because most brake fluids under racing conditions reach over 600 degrees easily and quickly, but wilwood makes the 570 so that its a little lower in temps, but still is great for street driving and doesnt break down, plus its economical compared to the higher priced fluids:fing02:

 

Is this what you're talking about??
http://www.raceshopper.com/motul_brake_fluid.shtml


What about THIS stuff??
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?t...cfm?tpc=Motul_RBF_660_DOT_4_Racing_Brake_Fluid&form_prod_id=6802&action=product

 

I was looking at this for the clutch. To keep things simple it will work on the brake system too (duh....). It's available locally and not too expensive.
To read the specs.....click the pic.

 

yessir thats good stuf, a good high boiling point also , valvoline used to make some great stuff, but they took it off the shelf replaced it with the same stuff but charged double $$$:fing02:

 

yes sir, I will try to pull up a comparison list later I have somewhere, the ap fluid or the castrol srf fluid are actually a little better , but if you are wanting the absolute best we can find that also, but its all relativity, betweent the wilwood 570 and the srf 600+ your really not gonna notice any difference except in the wallet ,b ut let me see if I can find that list from when we raced bikes:fing02:

 

.......................dry bp..............wbp...........3mnths.......6mnths
Castrol SRF .........590............... 518.......... 572......... 554
NEO Super DOT ....585............... 421.......... 544
Motul Racing 600 ..585............... 421........... 544
Wilwood Hi-temp .. 570.............. 284........... 499......... 427
AP600 .................572.............. 378........... 524.......... 475
Ford Hd DOT3 .......550.............. 290........... 485.......... 420
Perf Fric Z-Rated ...550.............. 284........... 484.......... 417
ATE 200/ATE SB.... 536.............. 392........... 500.......... 464
AP550 ..................531.............. 261 ............464......... 396
Valvoline High Perf ..513.............. 333........... 468.......... 423
Motul DOT 5.1 .......509.............. 365........... 473........... 437
DOT 5 Spec.......... 500.............. 346............ 462.......... 423
Castrol LMA ..........450.............. 311............ 415.......... 381
DOT 4 Spec ..........446.............. 311............ 412.......... 379
DOT 3 Spec .........401............... 284............ 372.......... 343


bp= boiling point


See if this helps spud, now if you want the srf I used to be able to get a decent deal on it, if so let me know:fing02:

 

So the boiling point of brake fluids drops over time huh?! I honestly didn't know that... Then there's really no point in replacing it unless it's going to become routine annual maintenance task.

In that case, I'll probably pass...

 

wrong, brake fluid absorbs moisture over time , so the longer between intervals, the more fluid it will absorb , so the more important for the fluid to be changed,

if you look the lower fluids will absorb fluid quicker over time, thus the importance of service

for instance on our race bikes, we replaced the fluid every weekend spud.

the deal is the better the fluid, the more resistance to heat, the less the breakdown of its properties.

 

maybe some of this information will Help some Tom, this guy did a very good write up sir

Brake fluid is possibly the single most neglected component of the automobile. Most high performance drivers check their tire pressures and change their engine oil at frequent intervals. Virtually no one (including me) ever changes the brake fluid in their street car - or even bleeds the brakes. WRONG!

The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver’s foot pressure on the brake pedal through the master cylinder(s) to the calipers in order to clamp the friction material against the discs. The foot pressure is multiplied by the mechanical pedal ratio and the hydraulic ratio of the master cylinders, booster (if used) and caliper piston(s).

This is a simple concept. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible and the system works as well as its mechanical and hydraulic design allows. There are, however significant problems. Overheated brake fluid can (and will) boil in the caliper. Boiling produces gas bubbles within any boiling fluid. Gas is compressible so boiling brake fluid leads to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel. In extreme cases overheated brake fluid necessitates “pumping the brake pedal” in order to get a pedal at all.

Finally, Castrol SRF is a racing brake fluid that is in a class by itself with patented chemistry and is, in my opinion, the best racing brake fluid on the market today.

This leads to a discussion of boiling points. Brake fluids are classified by both “dry boiling point” and “wet boiling point”. They are also classified by US Department of Transportation (DOT) rating, DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, and DOT 5.1.

As we would expect the dry boiling point is just that - the temperature at which a given brake fluid boil when it is fresh out of the can. This is the rating by which most high performance drivers and all racers select their brake fluid – from the standard racing 550 degrees Fahrenheit to the 600+ degrees Fahrenheit offered by the extreme use fluids. As a point of interest, even though they may have the same DOT rating, racing fluids are less compressible than street fluids, especially after they have been overheated.

For high performance street car use, the wet boiling point is at least as important as the dry. DOT 3 DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are ether based and, as such they are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they adsorb water at every opportunity. Since water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius) the adsorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. A minute amount of water suspended in the fluid decreases the boiling point as much as 1/3. Damn!

The fluid in the system absorbs water through the breathers, through the caliper piston seals and by magic. Not only does this reduce the boiling point, the entrained water leads to corrosion of both ferrous and Aluminum internal parts. Double Damn!! So buy your brake fluid in small containers and don’t save the leftovers.

I use Ford C6AZ-19542 which was developed in the early 1960’s to cure the problem caused by Lincoln Continental drivers boiling the fluid by habitually resting their left feet on the brake pedal. It is inexpensive and it works just fine.

But upgrading the fluid is not the whole answer. Unfortunately the hygroscopic nature of the ether based fluids means that they should be completely replaced at scheduled time based intervals (annually would be good) and that the system should be bled to replace the fluid in the calipers every time that it is overheated to the point of generating a soft pedal. Yes, the pedal will come back as soon as the fluid cools somewhat - but the boiling point is now reduced and the pedal will go mushy at a lower temperature the next time. Triple Damn!!!

Fortunately, changing to a 550 degree Fahrenheit fluid and replacing it annually will solve the problem for all but the most heavy footed among us.

 

Whether we like it or not, water is everywhere and finds its way into everything. That’s just the nature of the beast. Even our brand-new sealed brake system will eventually absorb water given enough time.

The magic of diffusion allows moisture in the air to permeate microscopic pores in the rubber brake hoses, the nylon master cylinder reservoir, and the various rubber seals in the hydraulic system. Sadly, there is nothing we can do about it and if left unchecked the water would sit in our brake system and rot it away from the inside out.

Hence the need for brake fluid to absorb this unwanted house guest. Because brake fluid absorbs water into solution, the local concentration levels are typically low enough that corrosion is slowed dramatically. As an added benefit, when exposed to low temperatures, the solution state prevents the water from pooling and freezing on its own. While water in brake fluid will certainly increase the solution viscosity at low temperatures, this is much more desirable than having little chunks of ice plugging up the system!

So, the next time you are bleeding your brakes to remove the water-contaminated fluid, don’t curse at the automotive gods too loudly. After all, the fluid was only doing its job.

 

Another brake question. I purchased a one-man brake bleeding kit that uses a hand-pump vacuum system. When I was bleeding the brakes on the 69' Charger, it was getting tons of air out of the bleeder nipple, and the air just kept on coming out. I finally realized that the vacuum was sucking air INTO the cylinder from the threads on the bleed nipple, then sucking it out through the bleed nipple. Should I put teflon tape on my bleed nipples to prevent this?

If I bleed the brakes at all four corners of the SRT10 to replace the fluid, how do I keep the same thing from happening with out enlisting my wife to sit in the truck and "brake" and "OK" to release. She does it faithfully for me, but I got that darn vacumm kit so I could do it alone without having to enlist her help. Am I doing something wrong?

By the way, I highlighted certain words solely for Tony's reading pleasure. Others can ignore. We all know Tony is a mammary-oriented man...

 

mmmmmmmmmmmmm nipples

OH~! uhm brakes yeah , uh
welll you are unscrewing it too far for one, the way I usually do it is to leave it tight and pull a vaccum on it with the pump, then while you have a vaccum pulled slowy start to crack the fitting, as it starts to pull the fluid you can regulate it from there, , but yeah most of the time the threads and the fittings are less than acceptable, for brakes you would think they would use a better deal, but try that and let me know:fing02:

 

I use the Valvoline Dot 3/4 .. My driving is street old fart driving with an occasional spirt of my youth thrown in ....I changed the fluid due to my left front caliper locking up 1 time and then a few months later the right side locked up... both freed up after sitting , letting them cool off for about a half hour..... I changed fluids to the valvoline dot 3/4 after getting recommendations on another forum and researching fluids online.... I also purchased, still have not installed the rebuild pistons and seals from Tony.... They have not locked up again since I changed the fluid...Atleast I have the parts to rebuild them if they do it again or when I decide to refinish the calipers... Tony's post and knowledge is right on :fing02:

 

I just had the EBC Rotors and Pads installed... I had the Dealer Flush the Brake System at the same time, they used a DOT5 fluid.... So does anyone know Who makes it and What the Temp Raiting is ???? :shrug:

 

I just rebuilt my front calipers, replaced with ebc pads and new powerslot rotors. did a full bleed. started off with wilwood high temp fluid.....had a boo-boo then just used prestone like big dave posted...... Spud if your not out there racing constantly on and off your brakes you don't need a high temp fluid because you'll never reach the fluids boiling point with one panic stop! I ride motorcycles on the track and i use RBF600 with is a really good fluid but it's not needed on a vehicle that only see street use........ Don't waste the money....you'll see no better gains or anything.....

 

Noted, thanks. Just the same, would rather have it in there, and not need it, then not have it in there and need it.

For someone who just spent $1K to make the engine look better... what is another $20 for high-temp racing brake fluid, I mean, really.

When it comes to the truck (or the family), nothing is too good.

 

Now That's the Spud, I know and Respect...

 

still aint no need for it....